Guide · 12 minute read

War medals, badges and regimental silver: why a medal group is not scrap

Written
At the Assaypost bench · checked before publication
Published
21 September 2026
Updated
24 September 2026

The short answer

A named medal group should almost never be sold for its metal. A medal group is worth what it is as a group: the medals, their ribbons and clasps, the name on them and any papers that came with them. Many medals are not gold or silver at all, and where one is silver, the metal is the least of it once the medal carries a name, because the name ties it to a person whose service can be followed in public records. Assaypost is a precious-metal buyer, not a medal specialist: if a named medal turns up in a parcel, you are told it looks worth more whole before anything is priced as metal, and nothing is done to it. The right home for an attributed group is a specialist medal dealer or an auction house that holds medal sales, and this guide shows you how to find out whose medals they were before you go.

No obligation. Decline and it all comes back free; ask for part of it back and a fresh offer is made for the rest.

What you are holding: a group, its ribbons and a name

Medals found in a family drawer often come as more than one. The medals awarded to one person, worn together on a single bar or kept together in a box, are called a group. A group can be two medals or ten, and it may come with ribbons, clasps, a badge or two, a bundle of letters and a photograph. All of that is one thing rather than several, and it is worth treating that way from the first minute.

Medal group
The medals awarded to one person, kept together. The combination says what no single medal in it can: where the person served, in which war, and sometimes for how long or for what.
Named medal
A medal carrying the recipient's details, such as a number, a rank, initials, a surname and a unit, stamped or engraved into the metal, often round the edge. Not every medal was issued named: GOV.UK records that the Golden, Diamond and Platinum Jubilee medals and the 2023 Coronation Medal were issued unnamed.
Attributed
Matched to a particular person through the records, so that the name on the metal and the entry on a medal roll or index card agree.
Clasp
A bar fixed to a medal's ribbon. The National Archives explains that awards for service in a particular battle within a war often took this form, so a clasp narrows down where and when someone served.
Provenance
Everything that shows where a group has been since it was issued: its box, the envelope it arrived in, letters, certificates, photographs of the recipient wearing it, and what the family knows about who it belonged to.

The house clearance page tells you to pull out medals and badges uncleaned and on their ribbons. This guide is the reason why. Badges are the loose ends of the same drawer, and regimental silver is a different thing again; both have their own section further down.

Why a named group is worth more whole than as metal

Three things give a named group its interest, and none of them can be weighed. The first is the person. A name on a medal can often be followed into public records, and those records can turn initials on a rim into a service history: the unit, the theatre of war, the date of arrival, sometimes a wound or a decoration.

The second is survival. The National Archives says that most service records for First World War soldiers were destroyed following bomb and fire damage at the record office, and that medal records are far more likely to have survived. For a great many of the people who served, the medals and the index card behind them are most of what is left.

The third is that originals are finite. The Ministry of Defence does not replace First World War medals, and for later service it replaces a medal only when it has been stolen, damaged or destroyed, never when it has simply been lost. GOV.UK says a lost medal cannot be replaced and points people to replicas from a medal manufacturer or dealer. An original is one of a kind, and the place it is valued as a medal is with a medal dealer or an auction house that holds medal sales.

Metal is the one part of a medal that can be had anywhere. The name, the combination and the fact of its survival cannot be had anywhere else, and melting destroys all three at once. That is why the answer to the question at the top of this page is nearly always no, and why Assaypost says so before you have posted anything.

Most medals are not gold, and many are not silver

People expect a medal to be precious metal because it looks bright and because it was given for something that mattered. Many are not. Medals have been struck in bronze, in silver and in base-metal alloys that look like silver, and the colour of a medal is not a safe guide to which.

  • The Arctic Star, a Second World War campaign star introduced in 2013, was struck by the Royal Mint in bronze, which the Mint described as its traditional metal.
  • The Diamond Jubilee Medal of 2012 was made of nickel silver, according to the government's announcement of it.
  • The King's Coronation Medal of 2023 is made of nickel silver and plated in nickel, according to the government's announcement.
  • Nickel silver is classed in the UK Trade Tariff as an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc. Despite its name it is a copper alloy, not a silver one.

A hallmark will not settle the question either. The Hallmarking Act 1973 lists stamped silver medals made before 1 January 1975 among the articles exempt from hallmarking, so an old medal with no hallmark may be silver or may not. The absence of a mark tells you nothing in either direction.

Do not test a medal yourself

An acid test leaves a stain and a file leaves a scar, and either one on the edge of a medal can take letters of the name with it. The metal is the least important fact about a named medal, so there is no reason to find it out by damaging the part that matters. Leave the question to whoever looks at the group next.

If a medal or a badge is marked as gold, or someone in the family always said it was, treat that as one more reason to take it to a specialist, not a reason to take it to a metal buyer.

Cleaning, remounting and splitting: how a group loses what it has

Three well-meant things can do a medal group lasting harm, and all three are easy to avoid once you know about them.

  1. CleaningMetal polish and a cloth take off the surface a medal has carried since it was struck, and on a named medal they wear down the lettering, which is the one part that cannot be put back. A dull, toned medal is not a neglected one. Leave it as it is, dirt and all; the cleaning guide explains what polishing takes away.
  2. Remounting and re-ribboningThe way a group is mounted, and the ribbons on it, are part of its record. Faded or frayed ribbons are not a fault to be fixed. If a ribbon has already been replaced, keep the old one with the group, and do not unpick a mounting bar to separate the medals or to put them in a different order.
  3. SplittingSharing medals out between children or grandchildren is the kindest-seeming way to break up a group. Once apart, each medal is a single medal with a name on it, and the combination that told the story has gone. If everyone in the family should have something, keep the group together with one person and share the research instead: copies of the index card, the roll entry and the photographs.

Keep the papers with the medals. The box, the envelope they came in, a covering letter, a photograph of the recipient in uniform, a discharge certificate: none of it is metal, and all of it is part of what a specialist looks at. Paper is the easiest thing in a drawer to throw away, so look properly before anything is cleared.

Tracing the recipient from public records

You can do the first research yourself, at home, before anyone else sees the group. It is also the most useful thing you can bring to a specialist, because a group that arrives with its research done is a group whose story has already been checked against the records.

  1. Read the edge firstTurn each medal and write down exactly what is on its edge or its back, letter for letter: numbers, rank, initials, surname and any abbreviated unit. Photograph it too. If there is nothing there, the medal was issued unnamed or the naming has been lost, and the papers that came with the group matter more.
  2. First World War army service: the medal index cardsThe National Archives holds over five million medal index cards, series WO 372, made by the Army Medal Office towards the end of the war. Each records a name, rank, unit, regimental number and medal entitlement, and often a medal roll reference and the date the person first entered a theatre of war. They can be searched by name and number through The National Archives' guide to the cards; officers had to apply for their campaign medals, so an officer may have no card.
  3. The medal roll behind the cardThe card points to an entry on the campaign medal rolls, series WO 329. The roll can sometimes add the battalion, and the battalion is what leads you to the unit war diary, which records what the unit did, although in most diaries only officers are named.
  4. Royal Navy and Royal MarinesNaval medal rolls for the First World War are in series ADM 171. The National Archives' guide to campaign and service medals explains that their entries are in alphabetical order, so no separate index is needed.
  5. Gallantry awardsIf the group includes a gallantry award, look for its announcement. The National Archives says almost all gallantry awards to British nationals were announced in the London Gazette, and that the announcement is often the only record of the award that survives.
  6. Later serviceFor medals issued by the Ministry of Defence you can apply for information about a medal, including for someone who has died, and the record includes inscriptions. Service records of people who have died are held partly by the Ministry of Defence and partly by The National Archives, depending on the service and the dates; GOV.UK sets out which applies, and warns that a search can take up to a year.

When the name on the metal matches the card or the roll, you have an attributed medal, and it is worth writing that down with the reference numbers. When it does not match, or the letters on the edge look different from one another, do not try to explain it away. Tell the specialist; a mismatch is exactly what they need to know about.

Badges and regimental silver

Badges come in every metal. A cap badge, a shoulder title or a badge given on discharge is judged first by what it is and whose it was, and only then by what it is made of. A sweetheart brooch in the shape of a regiment's badge may be hallmarked gold or silver, or it may be gilt or plated base metal; the mark decides that, not the design.

Some badges are as traceable as medals. The Silver War Badge was awarded in the First World War to service personnel discharged because of sickness or wounds, and The National Archives' guide to First World War soldiers explains that its rolls can be searched by name, regimental number or badge number on Ancestry, a paid service. A numbered badge that can be matched to a person belongs with a militaria specialist, and a badge that came with a named group belongs with the group.

Regimental silver is the trade's name for silver made for, presented to or used by a regiment or its officers' mess, and for private pieces engraved with a regimental badge or a presentation inscription: cups, salvers, centrepieces, napkin rings, cigarette boxes and flatware. As silver it is read like any other, and a British piece should carry a full set of hallmarks, which the hallmarks guide explains. What sets it apart is the engraving.

  • A presentation inscription naming a person, a unit, a date or an event ties the piece to a history a militaria collector may want, in the same way a name ties a medal to its recipient.
  • A regimental badge engraved on a piece is worth recording even without an inscription, because it places the piece with a unit.
  • Trophies and centrepieces can be loaded, with thin silver over a filled base, so there is less silver in them than their weight suggests. The weighted and loaded silver guide explains how that is established.
  • An inscription suggesting that a piece belonged to a mess or a regiment, rather than to a person, raises the question of how it came into private hands. Find out what you can about that before offering it anywhere; the identity and provenance guide explains why a buyer asks.

Assaypost does buy silver, and a plain spoon with a regimental badge on it and no other history may well be worth its metal and nothing more. A hallmarked piece with a presentation inscription or a unit's history attached is flagged before it is treated as metal, and you can take it back at that point for a specialist to see.

Where Assaypost fits, and where it does not

Assaypost buys gold, silver, platinum and palladium by post. It is a metal buyer, not a medal specialist, and saying so plainly is the most useful thing this page can do for anyone holding a family's medals.

  • A named medal that arrives in a parcel is listed by name and flagged to you as worth more whole before anything in the parcel is priced as metal (clause 4.4 of the terms).
  • Nothing is cleaned, cut or taken apart, and its ribbons and mounting are left exactly as they came. Clause 4.4 rules all of that out before you have accepted an offer.
  • Ask for it back and it comes back by tracked, signed-for post at our cost, for a medal dealer or an auction house to look at. If your offer has already been made, you are sent a fresh written offer for the rest, and the first offer stays open on its original terms while you decide (clause 6.3 of the terms).
  • An unnamed medal is checked for collector interest before anything else is decided about it, and the advice on it is the same: ask a medal specialist first. If it turns out to be base metal, there is nothing in it for a metal buyer at all.

Better still, do not post medals at all. If you are unsure whether something in a box is a medal, a badge or a medallion, send photographs first and ask what it is before it leaves your house.

When you do go to a specialist, look for a medal dealer or an auction house that holds regular sales of medals and militaria, and ask how they would sell the group and what it would cost you. Ask for the group to be kept together and described as a group. Take the research you have done and the papers, because both are part of what is being sold.

Seller risks and exceptions

  • A group weighed in with a jewellery box. A buyer who tips everything onto one scale treats a medal as a lump of metal. Take medals out of any lot before it goes anywhere, and if they have already gone, ask for each one to be listed by name.
  • A group split before anyone has looked at it. Once medals have gone to different households they are hard to bring back together, and the group cannot be described as a group until they are.
  • Replicas mixed in with originals. Replica medals are made and sold openly, and GOV.UK points people towards them where an original cannot be replaced. A family collection can hold both, and only the original carries the recipient's history.
  • A name that does not match. A medal whose naming disagrees with the records, or looks altered, is a question for a specialist and not a problem to hide. Say what you know and what you do not.
  • Medals in an estate. Medals left by someone who has died are part of what they left, and who can decide what happens to them is the same question as for their jewellery. The probate guide covers selling before a grant.
  • The specialist route has costs. Commission and sometimes other charges come off what a group fetches, and the right sale can mean a wait. That is worth knowing before you go, and it is rarely a reason to melt a named group instead.

When not to use the metal route for medals

Do not send these for their metal

A medal with a name on it. Two or more medals that belong together. Anything with a gallantry award in it. A group that still has its ribbons, box, papers or photographs. Any badge or piece of regimental silver with a name, a number or an inscription. In each case the interest lies in what the piece is, and melting cannot be undone.

This route suits very little in this guide. It can suit a hallmarked silver or gold piece that happens to carry a regimental badge but has no name, no inscription and no history, once a specialist has seen it and said so. For everything else, go to the specialist first, and come to Assaypost only if they tell you the metal is all there is.

Questions sellers ask

Should my father's medals be sold for their metal?

Almost never. A named group is of interest as his medals, and melting destroys the name, the combination and the link to his service records all at once. Nothing on this site puts a figure on a medal. Find his medal records first, then take the group, the research and any papers to a medal dealer or an auction house that holds medal sales.

Are old medals made of silver?

Some are and many are not. Medals have been struck in bronze, in silver and in alloys such as nickel silver, which is a copper alloy despite its name, and stamped silver medals made before 1975 did not have to be hallmarked, so there may be no mark to go by. Do not test one yourself. For a named medal the metal is the least important thing about it.

Can we share the medals out between the family?

You can, and it is your family's decision. Once split, though, each medal is one part of a record that made sense as a whole, and a split group is hard to put back together. Keeping the group with one person and giving everyone copies of the research keeps both the medals and the story intact.

Should I clean the medals or replace the ribbons before showing them to anyone?

No. Polish takes off the original surface and wears down the naming, and old ribbons are part of the group's record. Leave everything as it is, including the dirt, and if a ribbon has already been replaced, keep the old one with the medals.

Can the Ministry of Defence replace medals that have gone?

Not First World War medals, which it does not replace. For later service, GOV.UK says a replacement is possible only when a medal was stolen, damaged or destroyed, with evidence and at a charge, and not when it was lost. A replacement is never the original.

Will Assaypost buy a medal group?

Assaypost is a precious-metal buyer, not a medal specialist, and the right buyer for a named group is a medal dealer or an auction house that holds medal sales. If a group arrives in a parcel anyway, you are told it looks worth more whole before anything is priced as metal, and nothing is cleaned or taken apart. Ask for it back and it comes back by tracked post at our cost, with a fresh offer for anything else in the lot (clauses 4.4 and 6.3 of the terms).

How do I find out what my father's medals were for?

Start with what is written on the edge, then search the records that match it: The National Archives' First World War medal index cards and medal rolls for army service, series ADM 171 for the navy, the London Gazette for gallantry awards, and the Ministry of Defence's medal information service for later medals. The section on tracing the recipient goes through them in order.

Ready to ask about yours?

Send photographs and a person will tell you what the marks suggest, what looks plated, and whether anything ought to be seen by a specialist first. Free, in writing, no obligation.

Nothing is sold until you say yes. Decline and it all comes back by tracked post, free; ask for part of it back and a fresh offer is made for the rest.

If a piece is worth more than its metal

A signed brooch, a date-run sovereign, a watch that still runs, a piece of early silver: anything that looks worth more whole is flagged to you before it is treated as metal, and you can take it back at that point.