Silver
Sell silver by post: find out which pieces are sterling first
Assaypost buys solid silver by post from anywhere in the UK, including British sterling and silver made abroad. The first job is to find out which pieces are silver at all. Photograph the marks and a person tells you, free, what they suggest is silver and what is plate. Nothing needs packing until you know.
Photograph the marks underneath; that answers most of it.

Illustration Computer-generated. Not our bench and not a customer’s lot.
- The first questionsterling or plate?
- Usually answered bya photograph of the marks
- Sterling showsa lion passant (thistle, lion rampant or harp in Scotland and Ireland), or 925
- Plate, not solid silverpieces stamped EPNS, EP, A1 or Sheffield plate
- Weighted piecesa thin silver shell filled with pitch (a tar-like filling), often round an steel rod
In short
You can sell silver by post, and the first step is a photograph of the marks. From it you get a rough idea of which pieces look like sterling and which look like plate; it is not an offer. Send the lot and every piece is weighed and checked for its metal before one written offer covers everything we are buying.
Photograph the marks before you pack anything
A canteen of cutlery in its case, a tray gone grey at the edges, a pair of candlesticks: all the same dull colour. Some of it will be sterling and some will be electroplate, which is worth nothing as metal. Nobody can tell which from across a room. Photograph the marks and we will tell you what they suggest before anything goes in a box.
The marks on silver are small and usually in an awkward place. Turn a fork over and look along the back of the handle; turn a tray over and look near a foot. A teapot carries its marks on the base, sometimes under the handle, occasionally inside the lid. Photograph what you find, close and in focus, and send it on WhatsApp to 07369 296063.
That one picture usually answers most of it. A lion walking to the left beside an assay office mark means British sterling; a 925 on its own is the maker's claim to sterling, which is checked on arrival. EPNS, EP, A1 or the words “silver plate” mean a base metal with a thin layer of silver, which is not worth posting. A crown or a rose beside a lion is Sheffield's assay office mark on sterling, not Sheffield plate. Our guide to EPNS, A1 and Sheffield plate takes the letters one at a time. We tell you in writing what the marks suggest, with nothing to pay and nothing to agree to.
- The back of one fork, one spoon and one knife handle, close enough to read the marks.
- The underside of anything hollow: teapot, jug, tray, bowl, candlestick.
- Any piece stamped weighted, loaded or filled, because that word tells you something else is inside.
- The case or canteen itself if the set came in one, and the empty slots if any are missing.
- A wide shot of everything laid out, so we can see the size of the job.
If you would rather talk it through, or do not use WhatsApp, ring or text 07369 296063 (6am to 10pm, seven days); the same person answers. The photo guide shows what to photograph. Marks worn beyond reading are not a problem; the answer then waits until the piece can be checked in the hand.
Sterling, Britannia, continental and the marks that separate them
Four standards of silver are approved in the UK: 800, 925, 958 and 999. Sterling is 925 parts per thousand, and most British cutlery, teapots, jugs, bowls and jewellery are made of it. Britannia is 958 and softer; it was compulsory from 1697 to 1720, so early Georgian spoons can be Britannia standard. Continental pieces run 800, 830, 835 or 900 and carry their own national marks. A foreign piece hallmarked here before 1999 carries its office's import mark and a decimal fineness such as .925; since 1999 imports receive the same marks as British-made pieces.
Silver standards, and the marks you are most likely to meet
| Standard | Parts silver per 1,000 | Typical marks | What it means for you |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sterling | 925 | Lion passant (thistle or lion rampant in Scotland, crowned harp in Ireland), or 925 in an oval | The British standard, and the bulk of British silver |
| Britannia | 958 | The figure of Britannia, or 958 | Higher and softer; early Georgian pieces, hollowware and jewellery |
| Continental | 800 to 900 | 800, 830, 835, 900, crescent and crown, national marks | Silver, at the standard it is marked with, once checked |
| Fine silver | 999 | 999 or 999.9 | Bars, bullion coins and some enamelled work |
| Electroplate | Not solid silver | EPNS, EP, EPBM, A1, silver plate, BP, and “Sheffield plate” stamped on later pieces | Base metal under a thin layer of silver; identified and sent home |
| Old Sheffield Plate | Not solid silver | Usually unmarked, or a maker's name; made before about 1840 | Silver fused to copper; not bought, but early pieces can sell at auction |
Anything of 7.78 g or more sold as silver in this country should carry a hallmark, and a great deal of older, foreign and very light silver never did. On a modern British piece the lion is optional, so a full hallmark can be just the maker's mark, 925 in its oval and the assay office mark. We read the marks first and, where a check is needed, confirm them by the methods described on how items are tested; your offer records which were used on each piece. The guide to UK hallmarks shows each mark enlarged, and how to tell sterling from Britannia, continental silver and plate goes through the silver marks one by one.
How electroplate gives itself away
EPNS, electroplated nickel silver, is an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc under a coat of silver a few microns thick. A1 is a maker's grade for that coat, not a fineness. Old Sheffield Plate is a sheet of silver fused onto copper and rolled out with it, made before electroplating replaced it in the 1840s. In all three the silver is too thin to be worth recovering, so these pieces are identified and posted back to you rather than bought. Old Sheffield Plate and good Victorian or Art Nouveau electroplate can still sell as antiques at auction, and if a piece looks early, we say so.
- The marks do most of the work. EPNS, EP, EPBM, A1, silver plate, plated, BP, or a maker's name with a plating grade after it, all mean plate.
- Plate looks like silver on an untouched surface, so worn edges, feet and handles are checked for base metal coming through.
- A plated fork is less dense than sterling, so a careful density measurement can support a reading of an unclear mark, though it is not decisive on its own.
- Pink or yellow patches on the high points are the copper or the brass showing through where the skin has worn away.
- A magnet picks out cheap plate on a steel base at once; sterling and nickel silver do not respond to it.
A canteen of electroplate can be good cutlery, worth keeping, passing on or selling at a local auction for what it is. It is not solid silver, so it is not bought here.
Candlesticks, knife handles and the pitch inside them
Many sterling candlesticks, trophy bases, dressing-table sets and knife handles are a thin silver shell packed with pitch, plaster or resin, often around an steel rod that stops them bending. What the object weighs and what silver is in it are two very different figures. Some are stamped weighted, loaded or filled; plenty are not. Older cast candlesticks are the exception: solid, heavy and often collected.
So a filled piece is bought on an estimate of its silver shell, stated as an estimate, never on what it weighs. Nothing is opened before you have accepted an offer, so the silver is estimated from the type of piece, its dimensions and the thickness of the metal where an edge can be measured. The method is written down and sent to you with everything else, and if you disagree with it you keep the piece. The guide to weighted and loaded silver shows a candlestick in section.
Pieces that are filled, or have parts that are not silver
| Item | What is inside it | What we are buying |
|---|---|---|
| Candlesticks and candelabra | Pitch or plaster round an steel rod | The silver shell |
| Knife handles | Pitch or cement, with a steel blade and tang | The handle silver; a steel blade is not paid for, but a hallmarked silver blade (common on fruit, dessert and fish knives) counts |
| Dressing-table brushes and mirrors | Wood, bristle, glass, pitch | The silver back and frame |
| Trophy and vase bases | Plaster, occasionally lead | The shell |
| Salt cellars and mustard pots | A blue glass liner | The silver body; the liner is returned |
What decides what silver is worth
The answer is not a number. First, whether a piece is worth more as an object than as metal, which is why early marks, known makers and complete sets are looked at first. For everything else, three things decide it, and only one of them is about the market.
- How much of it is silver at all. A canteen that turns out to be electroplate is worth nothing as metal, however much it weighs. This is why the marks come first.
- What the silver weighs on its own. A candlestick is a thin silver shell around pitch and an steel rod; a knife is a silver handle on a steel blade. Those fillings are weighed and left out, and what remains is usually a fraction of what the scales said at the start.
- The silver price on the day it is weighed. It moves every working day, so a figure quoted last week describes last week.
That is why this site quotes no rate and works out no figure for you. A figure produced before anyone has seen your marks or found the filling in a base would only be a guess, so we do not give one.
Instead, photograph the marks and you are told in writing what looks like silver and what does not, so you know before you post whether anything is worth posting. Send it and every piece is weighed on its own and checked for its metal, and the parts that are not silver are named and left out of the weight. Your offer lists every piece and what was found in it; offers, returns and payment sets out what else appears on it.
Why start with the marks
On a household lot, the marks usually show whether there is sterling to post at all or only a box of electroplate. Photographs cost nothing and commit you to nothing.
Every piece on a list, before anything is decided
A canteen arrives as one object and is dealt with as forty. Every fork, spoon, knife and server is separated out, counted, photographed and weighed, and its marks read under magnification. Teapots and jugs have their wooden handles, bone insulators, glass liners and hinge pins left out of the silver weight. An insulator or finial that may be ivory is flagged, because a piece with ivory in it is returned rather than bought.
Your offer opens with that list, in plain words. For example: twelve table forks, sterling, Sheffield 1934; six dessert spoons, electroplate, returning to you; one pair of candlesticks, sterling, filled. You can hold it against your own memory of what went in the box before you decide anything. If the parcel does not match what you told us was in it, we stop and write to you before any offer is made.
- Each piece or matched run of pieces numbered, photographed and weighed.
- The marks found, and the town and date letter where they can be read.
- Plate identified as plate, named as such, and set aside for return.
- Filled and weighted pieces marked as filled, with the method used to establish the silver in them.
- Anything held back for a closer look, and the reason it was held back.
One written offer, and then it is your call
We price the lot, not the gram. One figure comes back for everything we are buying, in writing, next to the list of what is included and the list of what is going home. A canteen is one thing to decide about rather than forty, so it is offered for as one.
Nothing is melted, sold on or altered while you think about it. Say yes and the money goes by bank transfer to a UK account in your own name (the terms, clause 7.1). Say no and everything comes back by tracked, signed-for post at our cost, plate included, with any glass liners and loose parts wrapped separately. Say nothing and nothing is sold; if the offer lapses, the lot stays here untouched until you ask for a fresh offer or for it back.
You can also keep part of it. Say which pieces you want back, the tea service for instance, and a fresh written offer comes for the rest while the first stays open (clause 6.3). You will not be telephoned or pressed either way. Your offer says how long it stays open, and you can always ask for longer.
When a set is worth more than the silver in it
A full canteen by a known maker, a matched tea service or a Georgian coffee pot can be worth far more intact than as metal, and breaking one up cannot be undone. So anything that seems to belong in that group is set aside, and before any offer we tell you that it may be worth more to a specialist, an auction house or a dealer, so you can take it there.
- Complete canteens and matched services, especially with their original case and a maker's name.
- Georgian, early Victorian and provincially assayed pieces, which we flag so you can show them to a silver specialist or an auction house.
- Arts and Crafts, Art Deco and named designer silver, where the design can matter more than the weight.
- Coins with a scarce date or in fine condition, proofs, and bullion still in its original packaging.
- Crests, presentation inscriptions and regimental associations, which sometimes interest a collector.
- Caddy spoons, vinaigrettes, wine labels, card cases, snuff and vesta boxes, silver-mounted claret jugs and other small forms that are easy to miss in a bulk lot.
Before you polish anything
Please do not. A hard polish wears down the marks and softens the detail a collector looks for. Tarnish costs you nothing. Send it as it is.
Who handles it, and where to start
One person opens your parcel, counts it, checks it, writes the offer and answers when you ask why the tray is not sterling after all. Your lot is not passed around.
Start by sending pictures of the marks. If you already know the canteen is sterling, read how posting works: when you are ready to post, we arrange the postage with you and confirm the service and its cover in writing before anything is sent. A big collection may need two boxes. Each is priced on its own unless you tell us in writing that they belong together, and we then wait for the second before making one offer (the terms, clause 3.3); when we agree a split with you, we ask whether you want one offer for all the parcels or a separate offer for each.
Silver cutlery and canteens, tea sets and trays and silver coins and bars each have a page of their own. If the silver came out of a house you are clearing, house clearance gold and silver covers a whole-house lot, and how it works runs through every stage. Gold from the same drawer can travel in the same parcel; selling gold by post explains how that side is tested.
What we buy, and what we leave out
We buy
- Sterling (925) cutlery: forks, spoons, ladles, servers and canteens
- Sterling knives, bought as the silver in the handle, and silver-bladed fruit, dessert and fish knives
- Britannia (958) and continental 800, 830, 835 and 900 silver
- Tea sets, coffee pots, salvers, bowls, jugs and entrée dishes
- Weighted candlesticks and filled pieces, as the silver shell in them
- British silver coins struck before 1947, Maundy money and silver proofs of any date, and silver bullion coins and bars
- Silver jewellery, with stones, pearls and steel findings left out of the weight
- Dented, unpolished, incomplete and thoroughly tarnished sterling
We do not buy
- Electroplate stamped EPNS, EP, EPBM, A1, silver plate or BP
- Old Sheffield Plate and other fused-plate pieces (early ones can sell at auction, so ask)
- Stainless steel cutlery, and nickel silver with no silver on it at all
- Silver-coloured costume and base-metal jewellery
- British circulating coins dated 1947 onwards, which contain no silver
- Items that are not yours, or not yours to sell
Stopped before anything is treated as scrap
- Complete canteens and matched services by a known maker are set aside as possible sets before anything else
- Georgian, early Victorian and provincially hallmarked pieces are flagged for a specialist's opinion
- Arts and Crafts, Art Deco and named designer silver is flagged as possibly worth more as an object
- Coins that may interest a collector, proofs and packaged bullion are flagged before being treated as metal
- Engraved crests, presentation inscriptions and regimental pieces are flagged for their history
- Caddy spoons, vinaigrettes, wine labels and other small forms are pulled out of bulk lots and flagged
Questions sellers ask
How do I tell sterling from plate at my own kitchen table?
Turn a fork over and look for a row of small marks on the back of the handle. A lion walking to the left beside an assay office mark means British sterling; 925 on its own is a maker's claim that is checked on arrival. EPNS, EP, A1 or the words “silver plate” mean electroplate. If there is no mark at all, photograph the piece anyway and we will say what it appears to be before you post it.
Why is a heavy candlestick worth so much less than it weighs?
Because most of that weight is pitch or plaster around an steel rod, inside a shell of silver often less than a millimetre thick. The list you get shows what the piece weighed, the estimated silver in it and how that was worked out, and if you are not convinced you keep the candlestick. Older cast candlesticks are solid; send photographs if yours may be early.
Do the steel blades in my knives count?
Steel blades do not. Most table knives have a steel blade and a filled handle, so only the silver in the handle is bought, and the list says so for every knife. Fruit, dessert and fish knives often have silver blades, hallmarked on the blade, and those count.
Is my silver worth more as an antique than as metal?
Sometimes, and we would far rather tell you than melt it. Early marks, known makers, complete sets and unusual forms are set aside first. If an auction house or a specialist dealer may do better, we tell you before any offer, and you can take the piece back to try it. We are a buyer, not a silver specialist, so if you suspect a piece matters, ask one.
Can I send a whole canteen in one parcel?
Often not, because postal services have weight limits as well as cover limits, and a full canteen in its case is heavier than people expect. Ring or message us with roughly what there is; when you are ready to post, we arrange the postage with you and confirm the service and its cover in writing before anything is sent, splitting it across two parcels where that is sensible. Tell us in writing that the parcels belong together and they are priced as one lot.
Should I clean it first?
No. Tarnish does no harm, and a professional can remove it if it ever needs to come off, while a hard polish wears down hallmarks and softens an early piece. Send it as it came out of the sideboard, in its case if it has one.
Sources
- GOV.UK, Hallmarking: how businesses can comply with the law
- Assay Offices of Great Britain, Hallmarking guidance notes: practical guidance in relation to the Hallmarking Act 1973 (November 2022)
- The Silver Society, Identify your silver (Scottish and Irish sterling marks)
- Silver Makers' Marks, UK import marks (ended by the 1998 amendment to the Hallmarking Act 1973)
Related
- Send photos first
- Posting your items
- How it works
- Sell online
- Sell gold
- House clearance
- Probate and estates
- How items are tested
- Posting safely and cover
- Offers, returns and payment
- Silver cutlery
- Silver hollowware
- Silver coins and bars
- Weighted and loaded silver: why candlesticks, trophies and knife handles weigh more than their silver
- Antique silver or scrap silver, and how to tell the difference
- Reading UK hallmarks on gold, silver, platinum and palladium
A canteen or a teapot nobody uses?
The marks decide most of it. Photograph the back of a spoon or the underside of a pot, and a person will say whether it looks solid or plated.
Nothing is sold until you say yes. Say no and everything comes back by tracked, signed-for post at our cost.
No WhatsApp? Call or text 07369 296063, 6am to 10pm, seven days a week.
Plate is not bought, and you will be told
Plated pieces are named on your list and sent back, never mixed into the total. Photographs often spot them before you go to the trouble of packing.