Silver

Sell silver coins and silver bars

Old British silver coins and silver bars are bought by post, a jar at a time. A 1916 shilling is sterling, a 1936 shilling is half silver and a 1956 shilling has no silver in it. They are the same size and design, and only the date tells them apart.

Pictures of the bar and its card are enough to begin.

THE DATE DECIDES THE STANDARDUp to 1919sterling, 925200 g holds 185 g1920 to 1946half silver, 500200 g holds 100 g1947 onwardscupro-nickelno silver at allSorting into the three groups first is optional.Each group is weighed on its own; one written offer covers the lot.
Three coins that look alike, drawn with the silver each date band holds.
  • Up to 1919sterling, 925
  • 1920 to 1946half silver, 500
  • 1947 onwardscirculating coins are cupro-nickel; Maundy money is sterling again
  • Which coinsthreepence, sixpence, shilling, florin, half-crown, crown
  • Neverclean or polish a coin before sending it

In short

Silver coins and bars are bought by post. British circulating coins changed standard in 1920 and again in 1947, and the date is the only visible sign of either change, so every coin is read by date. Coins that may interest a collector are flagged before any offer, and coins holding no silver are named and sent back.

The two dates that matter

Britain struck its circulating silver at sterling standard until 1919. In 1920 the standard was halved, and the coins looked the same. In 1947 silver went out of circulating coinage and cupro-nickel replaced it, again without any change to the design. Maundy money was struck at 500 from 1921 to 1946, like the circulating coins, went back to sterling in 1947 and is still struck in it, and the Royal Mint has struck silver proof and commemorative coins since. On a circulating shilling, only the date records either change.

Silver in British circulating coins, by date

DatedStandardWhich coinsSilver?
Up to and including 1919925, sterlingThreepence, sixpence, shilling, florin, half-crown, crownYes
1920 to 1946500, half silverThe same denominations, unchanged in appearanceYes, at half the standard
1947 onwards, circulating coinsNoneSame designs, cupro-nickelNo
Maundy money, and silver proof and commemorative issuesMaundy: 925 to 1920 and from 1947, 500 from 1921 to 1946; proofs as the Royal Mint statesGiven or sold in sets and casesYes, and often worth more to a collector
Britannia bullion coins958 from 1997, 999 from 2013One ounce and fractional bullion issuesYes, at the standard stated

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Old coins are worn, and worn coins weigh less

Victorian and Edwardian silver stayed in pockets for decades. A shilling that has been through years of use is visibly thinner at the high points and weighs measurably less than one that has not. So coins are weighed as they are, not counted and multiplied by a mint figure.

Foreign silver, commemoratives and things that are not coins at all

Jars are rarely all British. Holiday change, coins brought back from service abroad, and commemorative issues bought at the time all end up in the same tin. Some foreign silver carries its fineness; the rest is identified from its type and date. It is kept apart from the British coins.

  • Continental and colonial silver at 800, 835 or 900, which is common in pre-war European change.
  • American, Canadian and Australian silver coinage, each with its own dates at which the silver stopped.
  • Crowns issued for royal events from 1953 onwards, usually cupro-nickel however impressive the packaging.
  • Commemorative medallions in plastic capsules, frequently silver-plated base metal rather than silver.
  • Coin-shaped ingots and “first day covers” (envelopes or cards with a coin sealed in), which are identified but rarely silver.
  • Maundy money, proof sets and coins in original mint packaging, which are set aside and flagged.

You do not need to work any of that out before you send it. It is here so that you do not throw away a jar of what looks like foreign small change, because the silver in a jar like that is quite often foreign.


Silver bars, rounds and sealed tubes

Silver bars run from an ounce to a kilo and beyond, cast or minted, and almost all of them carry a refiner's mark and a stated fineness. Minted bars are usually sealed in card; cast bars are poured and stamped. Silver rounds are coin-shaped but are not currency, and they say so, usually with “one troy ounce .999 fine silver” written across them.

  • Dimensions and weight are compared with the refiner's published specification where one exists. A plated base-metal bar of the right size is usually the wrong weight.
  • Leave sealed minted bars sealed; the seal ties the bar to its number. A sealed bar is checked through the pack as far as that allows, and the list says so.
  • Sealed tubes of bullion coins are left sealed and identified through the tube where possible.
  • A kilo bar, or a box of tubes, is heavy and awkward to post. Tell us what you have first; when you are ready to post, we arrange the postage with you and confirm the service and its cover in writing before anything is sent. Posting safely and cover explains more.

The checks are the same as on gold bars and bullion. A bar that fails one is described and photographed, and returned to you at our cost with the results.

Send the jar, sorted or not

You can sort by date at the kitchen table if you want to, but you do not have to. Every coin is read whatever order it arrives in, and a jar tipped straight into a bag gets the same care as one arriving in three labelled envelopes. A photograph of the dates first helps us tell you what is worth posting.

  • If you do sort, use three bags: up to 1919, 1920 to 1946, 1947 onwards. Label them and do not worry about the ones you cannot read.
  • Do not clean, polish or rub anything. Cleaning a coin can cost it its collector value.
  • Keep albums, folders and sets in their arrangement. The order may matter to a collector.
  • A full jar weighs more than people expect, so it may need more than one parcel. Parcels are priced separately unless you tell us in writing (WhatsApp, email or letter) that they belong together; then we wait for the last one and make one offer for all of them (the terms, clause 3.3).
  • Circulating coins dated 1947 onwards are separated out, named on the list and posted back to you with anything else not bought. Maundy and proof silver is set aside and listed.

If the jar came out of a house you are clearing, it can go with everything else rather than on its own. A jar of change, a canteen and a jewellery box can be one lot, and dealing with them together is quicker for you. House clearance gold and silver covers that, or inherited jewellery if the coins came to you directly.


The coins in the jar that should never be treated as bulk

Every batch is looked through first

Most pre-1947 British silver is common and its value is its metal. A few coins are worth more to collectors than for their silver (numismatic value), and melting one of those cannot be undone. Before anything is grouped the batch is gone through coin by coin, and anything that may interest a collector is flagged on the list before any offer, so you can take it to a coin dealer first.

  • Crowns and double florins were struck in far smaller numbers than shillings, and every one is looked at by date.
  • Coins in unusually good condition, with full detail and some original shine, are set aside; condition and date together decide what a collector would pay.
  • Coins from before Queen Victoria, milled or hand-struck, are always looked at one by one and flagged.
  • Maundy money, proof coins and anything in an original case or presentation pack is flagged.
  • Foreign, colonial and Commonwealth silver is kept apart, and anything we cannot judge is flagged for a coin dealer.
  • Medals with a named recipient are always set aside, because their history may matter more than their metal; war medals, badges and regimental silver explains why.

What happens to a jar of coins when it arrives

  1. Tipped out and photographedThe lot is recorded as it arrived, count and all, before anything is separated. Albums and folders are photographed in their arrangement.
  2. Read through for collector interestEvery coin is looked at before any of it is grouped. This takes care, and it is there to protect anything collectable in the jar.
  3. Separated by date and originBritish coins go into their three date bands; foreign silver, bullion coins and anything that is not a coin are kept apart from all of it.
  4. Weighed by group, checked by sampleCoins are weighed in their date groups, and some from each group are checked to confirm the standard. If any result is unexpected, every coin in that group is checked one by one.
  5. Listed, then one offerYou get a list with a line for each coin and its date, the count and weight of each group, which coins were checked, and anything set aside as possibly collectable. One written offer for the lot follows, to accept or turn down.

The post-1946 circulating coins stay on that list, named as cupro-nickel, so you can see they were looked at rather than assumed. The list accounts for every pile, including the coins that are not bought, so you can check it against what you sent. Offers, returns and payment covers the offer and what follows it.

What we buy, and what we leave out

We buy

  • British silver coins dated up to 1919, in any condition
  • British silver coins dated 1920 to 1946, in any condition
  • Maundy money and silver proof and commemorative coins of any date
  • Britannia and other recognised silver bullion coins, loose or in sealed tubes
  • Foreign and colonial silver coins with an identifiable standard
  • Cast and minted silver bars from one ounce upwards, sealed or loose
  • Silver rounds and small ingots marked with their fineness
  • Silver medals and medallions, once any that may interest a collector have been flagged to you
  • Whole jars, tins, albums and folders as you found them

We do not buy

  • British circulating coins dated 1947 onwards, which are cupro-nickel
  • Silver-plated and silver-clad replica coins, rounds and bars
  • Bars that fail the weight, dimension or density checks
  • Coin covers, plastic capsules and presentation cases, returned but not bought

Stopped before anything is treated as scrap

  • Any coin in very good condition, any coin from before Victoria, and any crown, double florin or Maundy piece is looked at before anything else
  • We never buy a coin as scrap if it may be worth more to a collector, unless we have told you and you have asked us to go ahead
  • Complete date runs, proof sets and coins in original packaging are kept together
  • Foreign and colonial coins we cannot judge are flagged so a coin dealer can see them
  • Sealed bullion coins in original tubes are kept sealed and identified through the tube where possible
  • Medals with a named recipient are always set aside
  • Where a coin may do better with a coin dealer we say so in writing, and post it back free if you would rather take it there

Questions sellers ask

Are shillings and florins from the 1950s silver?

No. British circulating coins dated 1947 onwards are cupro-nickel. They look identical to the earlier ones, which is why the date is the only reliable guide, and they are posted back to you with anything else not bought. Maundy money and silver proof issues are the exceptions.

How do I know whether a coin is pre-1920 or not?

By reading the date, and nothing else. There is no difference in size, design or colour between a 1919 shilling and a 1920 one. If the date is too worn to read, leave the coin in the jar; we read it under magnification.

Do I need to sort my coins before sending them?

No. You can sort them into three date groups if you like; it helps you check our list against your own count. Every coin is read whatever order it arrives in, so an unsorted jar is entirely normal.

Will you check whether any of my coins are rare?

We look, before anything is grouped. Every coin's date is read, anything that may interest a collector is flagged on the list with a suggestion to have it seen by a coin dealer, and nothing flagged is melted without your instruction. We are a buyer, not a coin specialist, so a dealer's view is worth having on anything flagged.

How are silver Britannia coins identified?

By the standard the Royal Mint published for the year they were struck: 958 for coins from 1997 to 2012 and 999 from 2013 onwards. Coins still in sealed tubes are left sealed and flagged as sealed, because that can matter to whoever buys them next.

Should I polish the coins to make the dates easier to read?

Please do not. Cleaning shows at once to anyone who handles coins, and it removes the natural colouring (toning) that collectors value. If a date is hard to read, we read it under magnification and good light.

Bars, coins or bullion to sell?

Photograph each piece with any certificate, card or box it came in. A person replies in writing about what they appear to be. Nothing needs posting yet.

Nothing is sold until you say yes. Say no and everything comes back by tracked, signed-for post at our cost.

No WhatsApp? Call or text 07369 296063, 6am to 10pm, seven days a week.

Keep the packaging

A sealed card or an assay certificate can matter to whoever buys the piece next. Keep it with the bar or coin, and mention it when you send photographs.