Silver
Sell silver coins and silver bars
Old British silver coins and silver bars are bought by post, a jar at a time. A 1916 shilling is sterling, a 1936 shilling is half silver and a 1956 shilling has no silver in it whatever. Same size, same design, same colour: only the date tells them apart.
Send a photograph and a person looks at it. They tell you what the pieces are, what is plated rather than solid, and which ones are worth posting. Nothing is committed either way, and nobody chases you afterwards.
- Up to 1919sterling, 925
- 1920 to 1946half silver, 500
- 1947 onwardscupro-nickel, no silver at all
- Which coinsthreepence, sixpence, shilling, florin, half-crown, crown
- Neverclean or polish a coin before sending it
In short
Silver coins and bars are bought by post. British coins changed standard in 1920 and again in 1947, and the date is the only visible sign of either change, so every coin is read by date. Each batch is searched for collectors' coins before any is treated as bulk, and dates holding no silver are named and sent back.
The two dates that changed everything
Britain struck its circulating silver at sterling standard until 1919. In 1920 the standard was halved, and the coins carried on looking exactly the same. In 1947 silver went out of circulating coinage altogether and cupro-nickel replaced it, again without any change to the design. Nothing on the face of a shilling records either event; only the date does.
Silver in British circulating coins, by date
| Dated | Standard | Which coins | Silver? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Up to and including 1919 | 925, sterling | Threepence, sixpence, shilling, florin, half-crown, crown | Yes |
| 1920 to 1946 | 500, half silver | The same denominations, unchanged in appearance | Yes, at half the standard |
| 1947 onwards | None | Same designs, cupro-nickel | No |
| Britannia bullion coins | 958 from 1997, 999 from 2013 | One ounce and fractional bullion issues | Yes, at the standard stated |
Old coins are worn, and worn coins weigh less
Victorian and Edwardian silver stayed in pockets for fifty years. A shilling that has been through several decades of use is visibly thinner at the high points and weighs measurably less than one that has not. So coins are identified and weighed as they actually are, not counted and multiplied by a mint figure.
Foreign silver, commemoratives and things that are not coins at all
Jars are rarely pure British. Holiday change, coins brought back from service abroad, and commemorative issues bought at the time all end up in the same tin. Most foreign silver carries a fineness somewhere on it, or is documented well enough to be identified without one. It is dealt with on its own terms rather than lumped in with the British coins.
- Continental and colonial silver at 800, 835 or 900, which is common in pre-war European change.
- American, Canadian and Australian silver coinage, each with its own dates at which the silver stopped.
- Crowns issued for royal events from 1953 onwards, usually cupro-nickel however impressive the packaging.
- Commemorative medallions in plastic capsules, frequently silver-plated base metal rather than silver.
- Coin-shaped ingots and “first day covers” with a coin sealed into card, which are identified but rarely silver.
- Maundy money, proof sets and coins in original mint packaging, which are set aside rather than treated as bulk.
None of that has to be worked out before you send it. It is mentioned here so that you do not throw away a jar of what looks like foreign shrapnel, because the sterling in a jar like that is quite often foreign rather than British.
Silver bars, rounds and sealed tubes
Silver bars run from an ounce to a kilo and beyond, cast or minted, and almost all of them carry a refiner's mark and a stated fineness. Minted bars are usually sealed in card; cast bars are poured and stamped. Silver rounds are coin-shaped but are not currency, and they say so, usually with “one troy ounce .999 fine silver” written across them.
- Dimensions and weight are compared with the refiner's published specification. A plated base-metal bar of the right size is almost always the wrong weight.
- Silver has no near-twin in density the way gold has tungsten. Molybdenum comes closest and is still about two per cent lighter, which a weighing in water shows.
- Leave sealed minted bars sealed; the pack helps with the check and the seal ties the bar to its number.
- Sealed tubes of bullion coins are left sealed and identified through the tube where possible.
- A kilo bar, or a box of tubes, is heavy and awkward to post. Say what you have first and how it should travel is agreed with you in writing; security and insurance explains the cover.
The same checks apply as on gold bars and bullion, and a bar that fails one is described, photographed and posted back with the figures that failed it.
Send the jar, sorted or not
You can sort by date at the kitchen table if you want to, and it is a pleasant hour with the radio on. It is not required. Every coin is read here whatever order it arrives in, and a jar tipped straight into a bag is dealt with exactly as carefully as one arriving in three labelled envelopes.
- If you do sort, use three bags: up to 1919, 1920 to 1946, 1947 onwards. Label them and do not worry about the ones you cannot read.
- Do not clean, polish or rub anything. This is worth repeating because coins are the item people most often try to smarten up.
- Keep albums, folders and sets in their arrangement. Somebody put that order there and it is information.
- Coins are heavy for their bulk, and a full jar weighs more than people expect, so it may need more than one parcel. Each parcel is a lot of its own unless you ask us in writing to hold the first until the rest arrive (clause 3.3).
- Coins dated 1947 onwards are separated out, named on the list and posted back to you with anything else not bought.
If the jar came out of a house you are clearing, send it with everything else rather than on its own. A jar of change, a canteen and a jewellery box are one lot as far as this business is concerned, and dealing with them together is quicker for you. See house clearance gold and silver, or inherited jewellery if it came to you directly.
The coins in the jar that should never be treated as bulk
Every batch is looked through first
Most pre-1947 British silver is common and its value is its metal. A minority is not, and melting one of those cannot be undone. Before anything is treated as bulk the batch is gone through coin by coin, and what is found is named on the list for you to decide about rather than quietly absorbed.
- Crowns and double florins were struck in far smaller numbers than shillings and are checked by date without exception.
- Coins in unusually good condition, with full detail and some original lustre, are set aside; condition drives collector value more than date does.
- Pre-Victorian milled coins and anything hammered are never treated as bulk, whatever their condition.
- Maundy money, proof coins and anything in an original case or presentation pack is flagged.
- Foreign, colonial and Commonwealth silver is identified and checked for collector interest on its own account.
- Medals with a named recipient carry provenance that melting ends, and are always set aside; war medals, badges and regimental silver explains why.
What happens to a jar of coins when it arrives
- Tipped out and photographedThe lot is recorded as it arrived, count and all, before anything is separated. Albums and folders are photographed in their arrangement.
- Read through for collector interestEvery coin is looked at before any of it is grouped. This is the slow stage and it is the one that exists for your benefit rather than ours.
- Separated by date and originBritish coins go into their three date bands; foreign silver, bullion coins and anything that is not a coin are kept apart from all of it.
- Sampled and weighedA sample from each group is tested to confirm the standard, and an unexpected result means every coin in that group is checked on its own. Each group is weighed as it actually is.
- Listed, then one offerYou get a list naming each group with its count and weight, the coins in it that were tested, and anything set aside as collectable. Then one written offer for the lot, which you accept or decline.
The post-1946 coins do not vanish from that list. They appear on it, named as cupro-nickel, so that you can see they were looked at rather than assumed. Coins are the one category where people most often suspect something has been quietly kept back, and a list that accounts for every pile is the answer to that. Offers, returns and payment covers the offer and what follows it.
What we buy, and what we leave out
We buy
- British silver coins dated up to 1919, in any condition
- British silver coins dated 1920 to 1946, in any condition
- Britannia and other recognised silver bullion coins, loose or in sealed tubes
- Foreign and colonial silver coins with an identifiable standard
- Cast and minted silver bars from one ounce upwards, sealed or loose
- Silver rounds and trade units marked with a fineness
- Silver medals and medallions, after a check for collector interest
- Whole jars, tins, albums and folders as you found them
We do not buy
- British coins dated 1947 onwards, which are cupro-nickel
- Silver-plated and silver-clad replica coins, rounds and bars
- Any coin as scrap where it looks worth more to a collector, until you have been told and have said to go ahead
- Bars that fail the weight, dimension or density checks
- Coin covers, plastic capsules and presentation cases, returned but not bought
Stopped before anything is treated as scrap
- Any coin in high grade, any early milled or hammered coin, and any crown, double florin or Maundy piece is checked before anything else
- Complete date runs, proof sets and coins in original packaging are assessed assembled rather than broken up
- Foreign and colonial silver is checked for dates and mint marks that carry a premium
- Sealed bullion coins in original tubes are kept sealed and assessed as they are
- Medals with a named recipient are set aside for their provenance without exception
- Where a coin belongs with a coin dealer we say so in writing, and post it back free
Questions sellers ask
Are shillings and florins from the 1950s silver?
No. British circulating coins dated 1947 onwards are cupro-nickel. They look identical to the earlier ones, which is why the date is the only reliable test, and they are posted back to you with anything else not bought.
How do I know whether a coin is pre-1920 or not?
By reading the date, and nothing else. There is no difference in size, design or colour between a 1919 shilling and a 1920 one. If the date is too worn to read, leave the coin in the jar; it is read here under magnification.
Do I need to sort my coins before sending them?
No. Sorting into three date bands is a pleasant job if you want it, and it lets you check the list against your own count. Every coin is read here whatever order it arrives in, so an unsorted jar is entirely normal.
Will you check whether any of my coins are rare?
Yes, and before anything is grouped. Every batch is gone through coin by coin, anything with collector interest is named on the list, and nothing that has been flagged is melted without your instruction.
How are silver Britannia coins identified?
By the standard the Royal Mint published for the year they were struck: 958 for coins from 1997 to 2012 and 999 from 2013 onwards. Coins still in sealed tubes are left sealed and flagged as sealed, because that can matter to whoever buys them next.
Should I polish the coins to make the dates easier to read?
Please do not. A cleaned coin is obvious to anyone who handles coins and the collector value goes with the toning. If a date is illegible, it is read here under magnification and good light, which is what that equipment is for.
Sources
Related
- How it works
- Send photos first
- Request your postal pack
- Sell silver
- What we buy
- Gold coins and sovereigns
- Gold bars and bullion
- House clearance
- Inherited jewellery
- Security and insurance
- Offers, returns and payment
- Silver cutlery
- Posting gold and silver safely
- War medals, badges and regimental silver: why a medal group is not scrap
- Selling inherited gold, silver and coins: the tax position in plain terms
Not sure what you have? Start with photographs.
Photograph the lot: the tangled chains, the single earrings, the canteen nobody uses, the bits you cannot identify. Send it over and you get a rough idea back, with no pressure of any kind. Post it afterwards if you want to, or do not.
Nothing is sold until you say yes. Decline and it all comes back by tracked post, free; ask for part of it back and a fresh offer is made for the rest.
If a piece is worth more than its metal
A signed brooch, a date-run sovereign, a watch that still runs, a piece of early silver: anything that looks worth more whole is flagged to you before it is treated as metal, and you can take it back at that point.