Gold
Sell gold bars and bullion
Cast and minted gold bars are bought by post, sealed or loose, with or without a certificate. Each one is listed on its own and checked by measurement, so nothing rests on the stamp alone and nothing is scratched to find out.
Send a photograph and a person looks at it. They tell you what the pieces are, what is plated rather than solid, and which ones are worth posting. Nothing is committed either way, and nobody chases you afterwards.
- Cast barpoured, uneven face, rounded edges, stamped marks
- Minted barstruck, bright, sharp edges, usually in a sealed card
- Marks to findrefiner, fineness, weight, serial number
- The fake to rule outa tungsten core, almost exactly as dense as gold
- Sealed cardleave it shut
In short
Gold bars are bought by post, and each one is checked against the refiner's published specification by size, weight and density, because the one fake worth worrying about passes a surface test. Nothing is scratched, drilled or cut, and a sealed assay card is never opened. Every bar is listed on its own with its refiner, fineness and serial number.
Cast or minted: telling the two kinds apart
A cast bar was poured into a mould. The top face is slightly uneven, the edges are rounded and soft, and the marks are stamped into the metal after it has cooled. Larger cast bars often have a pitted or rippled surface where the gold set. They look hand-made because in a sense they are, and that is not a fault.
A minted bar was cut from rolled strip and struck in a press. It is flat, bright and sharp along every edge, and the design and lettering are raised rather than punched. Most minted bars were sold inside a sealed plastic card with a printed assay certificate carrying the same serial number as the bar itself. The two kinds are equally good gold; they are simply made differently.
- The refiner's name or mark, usually the largest thing on the face
- The fineness, written as 999.9, 999, 995 or occasionally as 24ct
- The weight, in grams or in troy ounces
- A serial number, on almost all minted bars and on larger cast bars
- An assayer's signature or stamp on the certificate, where there is one
Why the sealed card stays shut
Do not open the pack to check what is inside
The seal is the only thing tying that certificate to that serial number. Once it is cut, the bar and its paperwork are two separate objects and nobody can prove they belong together. Everything that needs checking can be checked through the plastic. Post it exactly as it reached you.
If the pack was already opened years ago, or the bar was bought loose in the first place, nothing is lost that cannot be recovered by measurement. It is checked the same way and listed the same way. What an intact seal adds is convenience for whoever buys it next, not proof of what the metal is.
How a bar is verified without a mark on it
Gold is remarkably dense, and that is the whole basis of the check. A bar of the right dimensions has to weigh what the refiner says it weighs. Right size but light, or right weight but noticeably thick, is a warning on its own before any instrument comes out of the drawer.
- Measured against the refiner's figuresLength, width and thickness with calipers, weight on a calibrated balance, both compared with the specification the refiner publishes for that product.
- Read at the surfaceWhere an analyser is available, X-ray fluorescence (XRF) confirms the surface is gold of the stated fineness and shows up unexpected alloying elements. It reads only the outermost layer, which is exactly why it is not the end of the check.
- Density, and ultrasound where availableA thick gold shell over another metal passes a surface reading. Tungsten is the one that matters, because its density sits within half a per cent of gold's. Weighing in water narrows it; an ultrasonic reading, where one can be taken, settles it, because sound crosses tungsten far faster than it crosses gold.
- Marks, serial and strikeThe refiner's mark, fineness and serial number are photographed and compared with the certificate. Font, spacing and edge quality are part of the comparison; counterfeit packaging is usually close rather than right.
Every reading is written down and sent to you. If a bar does not pass, you are told which check it failed and shown the figures, and the bar comes back. No bar is treated as gold on the strength of what is stamped on it. See XRF capabilities and limits for what a surface reading can and cannot establish.
The bars that are not bars
Gold-coloured ingots are sold as ornaments, as advertising and as outright fakes, and they are convincing on a shelf. The tells are mostly about what is missing. A real bar names its refiner and its fineness. A novelty says something vaguer.
- “999 fine gold” and nothing else
- No refiner, no weight, no serial. Real refiners put their name on their own product; nobody makes an anonymous bar.
- “Gold clad”, “gold layered”, “24K plated”
- Base metal with a coating. Often sold in a card that copies the look of an assay pack down to the font.
- Bars in a wallet with a hologram and no serial
- The hologram is decoration. A real minted pack carries a serial that matches the bar underneath it.
- Very large bars offered cheaply
- A kilo of gold is a serious object and it is never a bargain. If the size and the price do not agree with each other, the metal will not either.
- Souvenir “bullion” from a mint set
- Gilded silver or base-metal wafers issued with commemorative sets. Usually stamped with a theme rather than a fineness.
None of this is a reason not to send something. A novelty bar in a parcel is identified, named on the list and posted back, and no one minds. The only bad outcome would be discovering at home that you had thrown away something real because it looked like a souvenir.
Sending more than one bar
Small bars are easy to post and easy to lose in a big parcel. Pack each in its own bag or card, with the certificate folded in beside it rather than in a separate envelope. Keep any purchase invoice with the bar if you still have it; it is not required, but it saves questions later where a sale is large.
A holding worth more than one parcel should be covered for is split across several, and that is agreed with you in writing before anything goes near a Post Office. Ask us in writing to hold the first parcel until the rest arrive and they are priced as one lot; otherwise each is a lot of its own (clause 3.3). Tell us roughly what you have before you pack. Security and insurance sets out how a parcel is covered, and payment is by bank transfer rather than cash, for the reasons given on responsible sourcing and AML.
Bullion is also the one part of this catalogue where it is worth asking a bullion dealer about that exact product before you decide anything. A sealed minted bar from a well-known refiner is a retail item somebody can resell as it stands, and that is a different market from ours. We will say so when we think it applies to what you have sent.
What happens to a bar when it arrives
- The parcel is photographed unopened, then opened, and the bars are photographed as they arrived, cards and certificates included, before anything is handled.
- Each bar is measured and weighed, read by XRF where an analyser is available and, where it is called for, checked by density or ultrasound. Every figure is recorded against that serial number.
- Each bar appears on the list on its own line, with its refiner, stated fineness, measured weight and the results of the checks. Bars are never merged into one entry.
- Anything that does not pass is described, photographed and posted back with the readings that failed it.
- One written offer covers the lot, and nothing is sold, melted or moved on until you accept it; offers, returns and payment sets out what happens next.
A bar is the most straightforward thing in this catalogue to describe and the easiest to keep straight, because every stage of it is a measurement against a figure somebody else published. That is why the report you get back is mostly numbers and why none of them is ours alone. The rest of the journey, from label to payment, is on how it works.
What we buy, and what we leave out
We buy
- Cast gold bars of any size with a legible refiner's mark and fineness
- Minted gold bars in sealed assay cards, from any recognised refiner
- Loose minted bars whose packaging was opened or lost years ago
- Bars of 995, 999 and 999.9 fineness
- Older and discontinued refiner bars, and small gift wafers, once verified
- Several bars sent together, with the packing and cover agreed first
We do not buy
- Bars that fail the dimension, weight, density or ultrasound checks, which are reported and returned
- Gold-plated and gold-clad replica bars, including tungsten and copper-cored novelties
- Anonymous bars with a fineness and no refiner, unless you are content for them to be treated as unidentified metal
- Bars whose ownership cannot be accounted for
Stopped before anything is treated as scrap
- A sealed minted bar from a well-known refiner may be worth more to a bullion dealer who can resell it as it stands, and we say so
- Limited-edition and commemorative minted bars sometimes carry collector interest beyond the metal
- Old cast bars with historic refiner marks are of interest to collectors of bullion history
- For a large holding, a quote from a bullion dealer for that exact product is worth having before you decide anything
- A bar still married to its original certificate is kept as a pair, never separated
Questions sellers ask
Should I open the plastic card to check the bar before posting it?
No. Everything that needs checking can be done through the card, and the seal is what ties the certificate to that serial number. Cutting it gains nothing and loses the one piece of evidence the pack exists to carry.
Can XRF detect a tungsten-filled gold bar?
Not on its own, which is exactly why it is not relied on. A surface reading sees a gold shell and reports gold. What exposes a core is the relationship between size and weight, and then a density or ultrasonic measurement.
My bar has no certificate. Is that a problem?
No. Certificates go missing and plenty of bars were sold without one. The bar is verified by measurement in exactly the same way, and the results are written down for you whether or not paperwork came with it.
How do I know a small bar will not get lost among everything else in the parcel?
Because it is bagged on its own and the whole lot is photographed as it comes out of the packaging, before anything is separated. Small bars are the item most worth packing individually, and that is worth doing at your end too.
I think my bar might be a souvenir rather than the real thing. Should I still send it?
Yes. Novelty ingots are common and identifying one takes a minute. It is named on the list, posted back, and nothing is charged for the trouble. Throwing one away untested is the only outcome worth avoiding.
I have several bars. Can they all go in one parcel?
Sometimes, and sometimes not. It depends on what a single parcel can be covered for, which is why it is agreed with you in writing before you post rather than worked out afterwards. Tell us what you have and we will say how it should travel. If it needs more than one parcel, ask in writing for them to be priced as one lot.
Sources
Related
- How it works
- Send photos first
- Request your postal pack
- What we buy
- Gold coins and sovereigns
- Probate and estates
- Testing and XRF
- Security and insurance
- Responsible sourcing and AML
- Offers, returns and payment
- Sell gold
- Silver coins and bars
- XRF testing: what it measures, what it cannot prove, and how a reading becomes a fineness
Not sure what you have? Start with photographs.
Photograph the lot: the tangled chains, the single earrings, the canteen nobody uses, the bits you cannot identify. Send it over and you get a rough idea back, with no pressure of any kind. Post it afterwards if you want to, or do not.
Nothing is sold until you say yes. Decline and it all comes back by tracked post, free; ask for part of it back and a fresh offer is made for the rest.
If a piece is worth more than its metal
A signed brooch, a date-run sovereign, a watch that still runs, a piece of early silver: anything that looks worth more whole is flagged to you before it is treated as metal, and you can take it back at that point.